NEW: Yesterday’s Seasonal Pantry featured three quince recipes, all perfect for this time of year. Find them here:
Quince Compote with Orange Zest & Pomegranates A delicious addition to your holiday table
Chicken with Quince, Riesling & Raisins
And for everyone who has requested the recipe for membrillo, here’s the direct link: Membrillo (Quince Paste)
To understand that it is quince season, all I have to do is look out my window at my enormous quince tree, laden with heavy fruit slowly turning from Pippin-green to yellow. I’ve got three huge basketsful waiting for my undivided attention.
Quince, ready to be picked
Quince made its first appearance–that I’ve seen, anyway–at farmers markets last week and you’ll probably be able to find them for several weeks.
If you are unfamiliar with quince, here’s the deal. From a distance, this tree fruit looks a bit like a huge slightly-misshapen apple. Yet even when ripe, it is harder than apples and quite tart.
Quince is packed with pectin but deficient in sugar: This is not a fruit you want to munch on raw, as nearly all varieties are too acidic, too sour to enjoy this way. Quince makes good jam and good chutney and it is delicious sliced, sauteed in butter and wrapped in dough for strudel. It is also a traditional ingredient in Moroccan tagines. But its most classic use and one that is increasingly available in markets is quince paste, or membrillo. Because of its high pectin content, quince that has been boiled with sugar sets up firm and sliceable. You find it throughout Spain, served alongside Manchego cheese.
I’ve been making membrillo for years, since my tree matured, though I confess that in some years I just don’t have the time. In the years when I’ve been too busy, I’ve given my quince away, including one year when someone used it to make wine. In years when I am able to make it, it takes me a single day to make enough to give away as holiday gifts and to have on hand until the next crop ripens. As I prepare to turn my current crop into quince paste, I still have half a dozen jars left from last year.
Serving Quince Paste
One of the most traditional ways to serve quince paste, which is known as membrillo in Spanish, is with Manchego cheese. Simply bring a wedge of cheese to room temperature and serve it alongside a small piece of quince paste.
Serve quince paste as a condiment alongside roasted pork.
Serve quince paste with feta cheese, pomegranates and a small mound of greens dressed lightly with olive oil, red wine vinegar and black pepper.
Quince paste is excellent with crisp bacon; let your imagination guide you.
Here are two recipes from the Seasonal Pantry archives. An upcoming Seasonal Pantry will include recipes for quince and raisin strudel and a tagine that includes quince.
Wine-Poached Quince with Rosemary
Homemade Membrillo (Quince Paste)
Nancy
I’d like to make some quince paste, but don’t have a food mill. Can you just use a seive?
November 2nd, 2010 8:15 pm
Terra Hues
Membrillo sounds great, although seems like a lot of work. Can you just make a small amount?
November 2nd, 2010 9:00 pm
Franco Dunn
The aroma of cooking quince is among the finest of kitchen smells. Quince jam, quince tarte tatin, quince and lamb tagine, hmmmmmm heaven!
November 2nd, 2010 9:07 pm
MicheleAnna.Jordan
Yes, Terra, you can make a small amount. Just use a similar formula. For every pound of quince puree, use about 3/4 pound sugar. You can also just eyeball it, adding sugar and tasting until it simply tastes good. Then you don’t have to weigh it. If you have any difficulties, just email me and I’ll help you through it.
November 2nd, 2010 9:21 pm
MicheleAnna.Jordan
Yes, you can use a sieve or a fine-meshed strainer. It will be helpful if you have a sturdy wooden spoon or pestle to push the puree through. You can always borrow a food mill, you know
If you need quince, let me know.
November 2nd, 2010 9:22 pm
Annabel Ascher
Thank you so much for this! I love quince, it is such a wonderful old fashioned fruit. I will be looking for it in the market and use some of your recipes.
November 4th, 2010 8:50 am
Frederique Lavoipierre
I adore quince! I haven’t tried making my own paste, however. How long does it keep?
November 4th, 2010 10:22 am
michel stong
This brought back wonderful memories of living in Roseland in the 1980′s and my wonderful neighbor who told me what I quince was, I didn’t know and then taught me how to make the most wonderful quince preserves. They are a Sonoma County treasure. Thanks for the great article.
November 4th, 2010 10:28 am
Joan Simon
I love quince. My friend’s mom sends us quince candy from France.
November 4th, 2010 10:54 am
MicheleAnna.Jordan
Made correctly (basically, cooked long enough) and stored in a cool, dark cupboard it should keep for a year. I still have half a dozen 1/4 pint jars left from last year.
November 4th, 2010 10:54 am
Shana Ray
Quince paste is one of my favorite things to spread on baguettes and serve with some bubbles and any type of skinky cheese. It is definitely underrated and misinterpreted, so thanks for writing about it!
November 4th, 2010 10:54 am
Diane
While in Iran I fell in love with savory quince dishes. One is Quince (Beh) Dolma, usually stuffed with cooked basmati rice, many spices, nuts and dried fruits and baked in a tomato sauce until the quince is s tender.
Another favorite was like a stew served over basmati rice. Usually cubes of lamb, quince, onions, tomato sauce, saffron and cinnamon cooked until lamb was falling apart..wonderful.
Also, a quince or two on your countertop for several days makes the most wonderful aroma in your home.
November 4th, 2010 2:51 pm
Lynn
My maternal grandma made Quince Jam and I can taste it while reading your wonderful article. Thanks for the memory!
November 4th, 2010 9:07 pm
Merrilee Olson
There are still some wonderful apples around, so last week I made some quince and apple butter with vanilla. Heavenly! Can’t wait to get my hands on a lot more quince!
November 8th, 2010 6:03 pm
Nicolle
I have limited access to quince but must find it now because it will make the perfect Thanksgiving dish. The chicken with quince and Riesling sounds amazing.
November 18th, 2010 11:54 am